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AFRICAN SAFARI CAMP UPDATES
November 2003

This Month:
• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - Botswana
• Excellent month of game viewing at Jao Camp in the Okavango Delta
• Monthly report from Chitabe Camp in the Okavango Delta
• Fantastic game sightings at the three Kwando Safaris camps in Botswana.

• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - Namibia
• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - Seychelles / North Island
• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - South Africa
• Will that be a suite or a twin Mr. Elephant? - Elephants on parade at Mfuwe Camp in Zambia
• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - Zimbabwe
• Comprehensive update from Wilderness Safaris - Malawi

• Wilderness Safaris receives acclaim and awards


Botswana Camps
Wilderness Safaris Botswana 
This has been our best game-viewing year ever. The combination of a) lower water levels (that helped concentrate the game), b) lower hunting quotas throughout the country (and no lion hunting anywhere at all) combined with c) our own "no hunting" policy has meant that we have enjoyed the best game viewing that we can ever remember. Just about each and every camp has had great game viewing all year.

The encouraging sign is that our guide training program in Botswana is really starting to bear fruit - and this year we have had the most positive feedback on our local guides ever. We cloned the Zimbabwe guide training system and imported it into Botswana about three years ago and we have seen the standards appreciate remarkably over this period.

Wilderness and Jack's and San Camp have joined forces. While the ownership of the two camps remains with Ralph and Catherine (Uncharted Africa Safari Co.), the reservations, marketing and day-to-day management will be handled by Wilderness.

The rationale of the link up was that we needed a Makgadikgadi operation to complete our Botswana circuit and Jack's / San needed access to our reservations, marketing, management and flying. We are confident that the combination of Jack's and San with Wilderness will be a winner. Nothing will radically change on the ground and the experience that Jack's and San offer will remain as it is.

[From Colin Bell - WS Director]:  I was up at Mombo for 5 days in August and what I saw up there blew me away. I have never seen so many different species and concentrations of animals anywhere in one place - ever. There were huge herds of zebra, elephant, buffalo - and all the plains game at every point on the compass. Leopards were everywhere as were lions. We just missed out on cheetah for some reason (as there are plenty around) and wild dog. The game experiences at Mombo were truly amazing. The camp is looking great and is working exceptionally well. We have got that extra lounge / dining area up and running and groups of 4 to 8 people staying in the main camp at Mombo can enjoy private meals in this area. Please book this facility in advance to avoid disappointment!

* Mombo also has just received a whole lot of new white AND black rhino that have just been released into the wild. The first black rhino, 4 of them, have now been released and an additional 10 female white rhino are running wild. In total, 32 white rhinos have been released at Mombo as well as 4 black rhinos over the past two years. It's been a huge success story for all and a wonderful conservation initiative.

Finally, we are very proud of Dave and Helene's Hamman's new cheetah book that has just arrived hot off the press. They are the owners of Chitabe and have produced a great coffee table book on the cheetahs of Africa. Dave did the photography and Luke Hunter did the text.

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Excellent Game viewing at Jao Camp                Jump to Jao Camp
A healthy and happy greeting from all of us here at Jao.

With the very late rains to this part of the world, the general game viewing on the Jao flood plains has been spectacular with large herds of zebra ,wildebeest and approximately 1000 buffalo moving in from the west to take advantage of the permanent water within the concession. The lion sightings have been frequent and covering the whole concession with the prides alternatively heading east for the lechwe on the floodplains and then west after the herds of plains game. We are proud to annouce that we have also had three new additions to the floodplain pride in the form of approximately 6 weeks old cubs which were first spotted in the middle of the month.

Leopard have been sighted regularly and we suspect that the Jao female has cubs in a palm thicket just off the island. A big male has also been frequenting the island and has become accustomed to the vehicles. A large female cheetah has taken up residence north of Kwetsani and has been sighted often by our guests.

We have been doing a lot of mekoring around the floodplains east of Jacana and over the last 2 weeks a female sitatunga and her lamb have been seen just after sunrise on an island close to the mekoro station. The highlight of the month must go to the two Pangolin seen on the western floodplain road to hunda island!

The migrants have all arrived and the camp resounds with the sounds of summer, in particular the woodland kingfisher and redchested cukoos. The birdlife in the area continues to astound our guests both in quantity and quality and all of them depart Jao with a new appreciation for the avian world.

We have had a lot of dinners under the stars, with the weather being very kind to us in this regard and the surprise bush dinners being the highlight for a lot of our guests. The staff singing has once again been a favourite with guests and hardly any "chirp and roar forms" fail to mention the impact that the friendly and caring attitude of the Jao staff has had on our guests. We have also been able to delight honeymooners that have stayed with us with romantic private dinners and surprise candles, homemade chocolates and champagne in their rooms.

On the lodge side, the staff christmas party was held on the 23rd for the whole concession and the enthusiasm with which everybody joined in the activities contributed a lot towards strengthening the comraderie and team spirit of our staff. Also with the slightly lower occupancy of this time of year we have been able to get stuck in to the maintenance side with Spike and his team totally revamping tent 7 and also strengthening the entire walkway from the pilots tent to tent 9. Construction has also started on the new swimming pool which will be situated in the flood waters themselves and will provide a wonderful location to relax and cool down with a bush cocktail or two.

The team for next month will be Clinton ,Rebecca, Sandra, Peter, Zelda, Frank and Tanya and we look forward to another great month out here.

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Monthly report from Chitabe Camp                Jump to Chitabe / Chitabe Trails Camps
Following on from last month's wonderful sightings (which included the rhino), November has been just as exciting for guides and guests. A highlight in the past at Chitabe has been the big herds of buffalo, as featured both on the WS web page and brochure. More than a few times this month we were blessed with an awe inspiring sight of a herd of over 1500 strong making their way in front of the Main camp; this enabled us to watch some interesting interactions between the buffalos and the Chitabe lion pride right on our doorstep (and the luxury of the bar)!

The four male lions in the coalition have been exerting their claim over the pride as they settle in to their role as leaders. Two of them have been mating with a number of different females - sustaining to the extent that even the most prude of guests could not resist a peek at the action. We are keeping our fingers crossed that the lionesses have gained some experience from their previous and largely unsuccessful attempts at rearing young.

But it's not only Main Camp which has been seeing all of the action... Two females pulled down a young Zebra at the waterhole just in front of Chitabe Trails and continued to fight over the carcass. The ‘lions share’ of the kill was not decided by the dominate female but a much larger species. An elephant bull arrived out of no where and noisily charged straight at the lions causing them to drop the Zebra and take cover in the long grass... releasing the kill for a trio of lionesses waiting on the sidelines. We watched the pair continue to cower in the reeds until the bull moved away proceeding with his journey. Leaving all of us gazing on to pondering both incredible displays of power.

Elephants have always been a big part of everyday life at Chitabe and they are often found feeding on the island in between the tents. Such over exposure to these animals did not make the following sighting any less magical, in fact maybe even more the opposite? A breeding herd of approximately 300 moved silently from the forest up the channel which runs parallel to both camps. Guides, guests and managers watched from the dinning room over their breakfast as the Elephants proceeded past. They continued on to the top of the island where they were suddenly spooked (the wind changed, we believe picking up the sent of the lions sleeping in the reeds). Lost for words we watched the incredible transformation from gentle giants to a formidable force as the elephants trumpeting loudly ran back in to the cover of the trees. Although the whole episode probably lasted just 20 minutes, it was definitely one of those memories that will stay with those that observed it for a long time.

Wild dogs (our logo species at Chitabe) continued to keep a high profile this month. Since leaving their dens, the pups from both the Mogogelo and Moonstone packs have provided endless entertainment for all as they continue to run circles around and over the adults during play. This has proved beneficial in developing their stamina, as the pups whilst heading out on hunts have been able to keep up with the pack, with seemingly little effort. But as life goes in the bush, every up has a down. Sadly, a female from the smaller Sandibe pack which frequents this area was killed by some of the other dogs right on the edge of our concession. The exact reasons behind this behavior are currently being explored by the Wild Dog Researchers.

Back to the big cats, both Cheetah and Leopards have been spotted regularly (no pun intended). A close up sighting was provided by a very relaxed young leopard who chose to get comfy in the sausage tree above Main Camp’s tent number one. Other predators such as Hyenas and Jackals often remind us of their presence, when they stop to return the gaze of guests having bush sundowners.

General game has been very concentrated around the immediate vicinity to the camp as the water has been visibly drying up every day – only to be topped up by the rainfall. Good sightings of relaxed groups of Giraffe and Zebra have enable those guests with cameras to take interesting shots as the stand side by side drinking with the other antelope. The first species to drop young were the Tsessebe followed a week later by the Impala.

Since the first rains, many more species have been reappearing after keeping a low profile. As no creature should really be left out of this update: The Reptiles, Amphibians and Insects have held many of those guest s who came to this continent primarily for the “Big Five” equally as captivated. One such incident was played out this morning in the lounge entrance way. When two Skinks were so engrossed in a territorial dispute they carried on oblivious to the arrivals and departures going on around them

It's that time of year again when one of the dominant sounds from early morning throughout the day is the call of the Woodland Kingfisher. The call is later surpassed by the night sounds of the many Scops owls we have roosting in camp. One species which seems to be getting most of the attention from other seasonal visitors to the island is a pair of Paradise Flycatchers who are busy building their nest in one of the trees which burnted down last year in our fire. A poignant reminder to all that life continues with force as one month rolls in to the next and the rains soften the ground once more.

Guest Comments:
“ Thanks to all that made such an effort to ensure that we had a wonderful stay and Joe a wonderful birthday – the private dinner and the cake. The fact that nothing is too much for any of the guides and staff to do is very noticeable, they are truly caring and sharing people!”

“Outstanding camp and staff. Seeing the Wild Dogs was a very special treat . Joyce and I are two out of two at Chitabe for seeing the dogs! Not a bad average. The guides did a great job to track them and determine where they were heading. Will look forward to our third visit!

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Kwando Safaris November Update
Kwara camp                Jump to Kwara Camp
• One fantastic Leopard sighting of a sub-adult male Leopard that attempted to catch a fairly large Monitor Lizard; the Monitor managed to give the Leopard a good whip with its tail and keep the Leopard at bay!
• Good Lion sightings including a pride of 9 females with 2 cubs that were feeding on Giraffe kill until 2 large males rushed in and chased them off the carcass, killing one of the cubs in the process.
• Good Cheetah sighting of a male that was viewed on several occasions, mainly marking his territory.
• Good herd of Buffalo of over 1,000 animals.
• Boat trips to the Heronry have been rewarding and the various chicks are getting large and very ugly, especially the Marabou Stork chicks. There have also been excellent sightings of Elephant from the boat in the channels and breeding herds on the islands.
• Kwara received 26 mm of rain this last week.

Lagoon camp                Jump to Lagoon Camp
Good Leopard sighting of an animal that was picked up just outside of camp and then strolled through the camp later that evening when everyone had retired for the night.
Nice herds of Buffalo up in the north numbering about 1,000.
The resident territorial male Lions have been tagging the Buffalo herd in the north, splitting the larger group into 3 herds.
There was a light sprinkle of rain that has dispersed the Elephant, although there has still been good sightings of Elephants.
The Impala herds have started dropping their calves which has transformed the atmosphere in the bush – the start of a new season.
There have been sightings of African Rock Pythons, one of the sightings was of a large specimen that was ± 2.5m long and fairly sizeable in girth.

Lebala camp                Jump to Lebala Camp
Fantastic interaction between predators witnessed at Lebala again. Two female Lions were chased off a Giraffe carcass that they were feeding on by a clan of 8 Hyenas. One female Lion came back to try and claim the carcass back and was viscously attacked by the Hyenas, who managed to inflict some severe bite wounds before the Lion managed to climb a tree for safety!
Two leopard sightings of a young male who is becoming relaxed.
Two Wild Dog sightings including a pack feeding on a Kudu carcass.
Dramatic action was witnessed of ± 40 Crocodiles feeding on a dead Hippo in the water. There were several large Crocodiles present, with 3 or 4 exceptionally large ones that the Guides estimated at over 5 metres! There was a feeding frenzy at the carcass amongst the Crocodiles including competition amongst themselves, spinning in the water as they rip the flesh, plus avoiding the odd charge by the resident Hippo.
Excellent general game including large herds of Zebra of up to 150 animals, Blue Wildebeest, Tsessebe and Impala with their newly born babies, Sable and Roan Antelope, scattered groups of Elephant, and one sub-adult Eland female.
Nocturnal sightings include Serval, 3 sightings of Caracal and some excellent sightings of Aardwolf.
Lebala received 19 mm of rain this last week.

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Namibia Camps
Wilderness Safaris Namibia 
Namibia too has had an outstanding year. It seems as though the country is now being discovered and occupancies are on the up. Our new camps - Serra Cafema, Palmwag Rhino Camp and Little Ongava have helped to considerably ramp up the experience that guests have enjoyed. These new camps have added a dimension of quality and privacy that was often lacking throughout much of the country.

We are going to make minor changes to Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp over the next months, as this camp needs a sleep out facility that the Kulala's offer. For next year, Sossusvlei Wilderness will have an enlarged deck out front of the bedroom where guests can sleep under the stars if they so wish.

* We have just been told that there is a new park fee coming into effect on the 1st January 2004. This will cost us R80 per entry into the Sossusvlei and Etosha. Generally guests who stay at Sossusvlei and Ongava enter the parks only on one day - so there will be an R80 surcharge. If guests stay three nights we will generally enter the park on two days and they will be charged an extra R160. Sorry about this. We had no warning about this increase and have no alternative but to charge extra for the increase.

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Seychelles / North Island
Wilderness Safaris Seychelles                Jump to Seychelles / North Island
We are enormously proud of what has been achieved there under often very trying circumstances. Even though our African camps are often so remote, we can always "make a plan" to get goods on site in an emergency. Seychelles is very different as there is at least a two to three month waiting time from the moment you order an item, till it arrives on the island. There have to be few places on this planet that are this difficult to run an operation. The guest reviews that we are now getting are out of this world. Many guests and agents have said that there is nowhere more beautiful than North Island. We have had many guests already rebook their second holidays on the island.

We are moving to an all-inclusive tariff from around Christmas '03 and this will further improve the whole feel and atmosphere of the lodge. Guests will pay a bit more up front, but it will mean that they do not leave the lodge with a nasty taste in their mouth on check-out. Indian Ocean Islands are famous for their enormous extras bills that are often higher than their up front charges. On North Island, even items like the resort Scuba diving courses and all scuba dives, all activities, wines, beers and drinks and an arrival massage are included in our new tariff. The only exclusions are expensive wines on our "reserve wine" list, spa treatments and full PADI dive courses.

The de-ratting and alien species eradication program took place some months back. It was an extraordinarily complex and expensive exercise. But this has resulted in a totally rat / cat free island. We are now already seeing an increase in the number of birds on the island, directly as a result of this program.

We have been doing all the spa treatments in the guests' villas and guests have loved this facility. As a result, the building of a separate spa is on hold and will only be completed somewhere around the middle of next year.

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South Africa
Wilderness Safaris South Africa
We have made large strides in developing our new South African lodges this year and the areas we have been able to secure are truly breathtaking and will easily match the areas and experiences that we offer in the countries north of South Africa.

The northern part of Kruger Park (in the Pafuri / Makuleke area), Mkambati (in the Eastern Cape along the "Wild Coast") and our very special site on the coast at Plettenberg Bay are truly mouth-watering and so different from anything that is currently available in South Africa. These areas will add to the existing South African experience and lodges to complement what's on offer. We are aiming at opening our Kruger and Mkambati lodges and camps somewhere in the middle to late part of 2004 - and Plettenberg Bay will probably open in 2005.

* Our northern Kruger property (The Makuleke / Pafuri area) is so different in scenery, vegetation and wildlife from any of the existing reserves and lodges in and around Kruger. Our Kruger camps will not be competing with any of the lodges in the south, but will be complementing their experience. We are therefore suggesting that guests visit both the north and south of Kruger on their travels - much like guests visit the Okavango and Linyanti / Chobe in Botswana. Visiting both the north and the south will give visitors a much more rounded and fuller picture of what Kruger is all about.

The trees in the Pafuri / Makuleke are up to 50% higher than an average baobab! One feels as though one is walking in Mana Pools or somewhere in central Africa when one walks along the banks of the Luvuvhu River in the Pafuri. We will be able to offer night drives, off-roads, hides, walks and even mountain biking from these new camps... all within Kruger. And we have our own airfield close to the camps to allow for quick and easy access from Johannesburg and from the southern Kruger.

[Colin Bell]: * Mkambati Nature Reserve along the Wild Coast (between Durban and East London) has always been a very special reserve for me. I am taking control of this project for Wilderness. I have taken the personal step of realigning my time to spend more time in the bush and will take on an additional and new role here at Wilderness to oversee the development of Mkambati Nature Reserve. This will allow me to get into the field a lot more than I have been doing. I believe that this reserve has the potential to be the best nature and game reserve in all of South Africa and possibly the best coastal reserve in Africa.

* Ndumo Game Reserve and the Tembe Elephant Park in northern Kwa-Zulu Natal can now be easily combined on game activities using a new pontoon we have built that allows us to cross the Pongola River and travel into Tembe directly. This avoids the traditional long drive via the main road as our Land Rovers can now game drive within Ndumo and then hop onto the pontoon and be pulled over (by hand) to the other side of the river and then drive into Tembe via a side entrance. So guests can view all the great scenery, rhinos, buffalo, hippos, crocs etc in Ndumo and drive into Tembe for elephant and lion etc.

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Zambia - South Luangwa
Elephants on parade at Mfuwe Lodge
We have attached a few photos of the truly amazing elephant story from Mfuwe Camp in Zambia's South Luangwa National Park... every November these same eight elephants walk through the Mfuwe Lodge reception area. They do this almost daily for about six weeks.

A comment from one amazed guest that was at the lodge at the time.
" Can I please make a trunk call?"

Elephant walking through Mfuwe Lodge's reception Elephant checking in at Mfuwe Lodge's reception Elephants on parade at Mfuwe Lodge

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Zimbabwe
Wilderness Safaris Zimbabwe
[Per Colin Bell - WS Managing Director]:
A few weeks back I returned from a great trip around Zimbabwe and thought I should comment on the situation there, especially in light of some of the recent negative comments in the press.

The scoop within Zimbabwe is that the country is just the same as it has been for the past 3 years. The living conditions for the average Zimbabwean have continued dropping. The food situation in the country (especially the rural areas) is not good and in many areas people are starving. There are large scale fuel shortages and there is no foreign currency. In many areas, the local people have had to resort to poaching to survive and keep their families alive. The economic and political situation is a mess. Hence the locals are being searched for foreign currency (although our guests / tourists are being left alone).

There are however, four shining areas in the quagmire and these areas are Vic Falls, the south-eastern sector of Hwange, Matusadona and Mana Pools National Parks.

People often ask us why we are keeping going in Zimbabwe. Sure it would be easy to just to quit and say bye (especially as we are making financial losses in Zimbabwe). But the ramifications of quitting are just too awful to contemplate - for the wildlife and for our staff. If we had to move out of Hwange in particular, poaching would escalate and the animals would be decimated very quickly for the cooking pot. There are only 27 waterholes that are functioning throughout the whole of Hwange and we are maintaining and running 22 of them, entirely at our cost. So this is where the game is and why we are witnessing incredible game concentrations around Makalolo and Linkwasha. We are also doing a lot of the vet work in our areas and maintaining the wildlife status quo through our anti-poaching efforts in collaboration with the Parks' authorities. Without these efforts Hwange could potentially collapse.

We are currently supporting seven rural schools around Makalolo and Linkwasha's eastern boundary and between us and contributions from our guests we are supplying cash and goods to these schools that works out to about 3 times the schools annual budget. Without this support these schools would not be able to provide a decent education to the kids. All in all when one weighs up the wildlife, our staff (and their families' livelihoods) and the schools, we have no option but to keep on going in Zimbabwe - hoping that change happens quickly.

On the positive side of things, the game and wildlife experience has been superb all year and Zimbabwe still offers one of the best game experiences anywhere in Africa - and at great value too. Our camps have been running at reasonable occupancies all through the year (but nothing to shout home about) and the guests have been having a superb time. We hosted the travel editor of the New York Times (unbeknown to us) on a safari earlier this year. She traveled as a full paying guest and wrote the most incredible article on southern Africa that was the front page on their travel supplement. She painted a glowing picture of her Mana Pools / Chikwenya experience. The reason I mention all of this is that people are traveling to Zimb and they are getting an excellent wildlife experience, despite the negative publicity in the newspapers.

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Malawi
Wilderness Safaris Malawi
There are some wonderful new initiatives and lodges that are changing the face of Malawi (and the lakeside properties along neighbouring Mozambique's shoreline along Lake Malawi) and are making the country even more exciting and attractive to visit. These lodges complement what is on offer at Mvuu in Liwonde National Park and up in the Nyika. One of these projects is on the shores of Lake Malawi - but in Mozambique waters - and is easily accessible from Malawi. Nkwichi Lodge is situated in the Manda Wilderness area of Mozambique up along the northern shores of Lake Malawi in an area of quite exceptional beauty with thick indigenous forest fringing a white sandy beach - where wild dog have been sighted. On offer is Lake Malawi's finest snorkelling , bush walks, and visits to historic Likoma Island.

Kayak Africa have been established for some years and have 2 exquisite tented camps in Domwe and Mumbo Islands in the Cape Maclear peninsula along the southern lakeshore within Malawi. The camps are accessed by boat or by kayak and offer diving, snorkelling, kayaking and birding walks.

Air Malawi Flights into Mvuu
* All Air Malawi flights to and from Blantyre and Club Makakola on the Southern Lakeshore now call in at Mvuu en route. The plane is a Cessna Caravan which takes 12 guests. We are currently negotiating with Air Malawi to extend this service to and from Lilongwe and hope to be able to offer you a quick, efficient and cost effective air option for getting to and from Malawi's finest game area.

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General
Wilderness Safaris - Awards
Wilderness Safaris is being recognized internationally by a number of prestigious organizations and publications. These awards have certainly warmed our hearts and bear true testament to our wonderful, motivated and committed team.

North Island: The Sunday Times in the UK voted this as the best resort in the world for style! In fact they stated that: "North Island has set a towering new standard in the art of barefoot style, and has leapt to the top of the world's honeymoon hot list".

Jack's Camp: The Sunday Times readers voted this camp as having the best service in the world and said: "The staff are experts at making you feel like an individual in a very special environment"

Rocktail Bay: Harpers and Queen in the UK voted Rocktail Bay as the joint best dive experience in the world
The River Club was voted as one of the 20 best hotels' in the world by Fodors and was also voted by Harper's and Queen as one of the World "Most Luxurious" Action Spots

Wilderness Safaris was voted as the best eco-tourism company in the world by ASTA - the American Society of Travel Agents.

And to top everything off -.Wilderness Safaris is enormously proud to have received the World Legacy Award for the World's Number One Wildlife Travel Company from Conservation International and National Geographic.

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